Product description

A very vulnerable area for rust is the corner at the end of the heating channels, the problem is the two pieces of sheet metal that are spot welded together, creating a focus of rust and rot.

You can only replace the outer part (see the Replacement Parts and Options tab) if the inner part is not rusty. If this is the case, it is preferable to replace the complete heating channel and not to clutter up with many small repair parts.

Unfortunately, there are many amateur restorers who simply replace the exterior and leave the interior as it is, with the result that the appearance is clean but in the foreseeable future the rust will reappear, the rust process is not stopped but simply hidden.

Address the problem at the source, remove all rust (by sandblasting) and replace rusty parts, only then are you on the right track to a quality restoration.

From 8/1967, you had the choice between two qualities. Quality A is identical to the original, both in terms of design and steel thickness, and benefits from high-quality pressing that guarantees a perfect fit. Quality B, on the other hand, uses a thinner metal and is less tightly pressed. In addition, the fixing holes on the bottom plate still need to be drilled. For both qualities, the weld nuts for mounting the heater outlets introduced from 8/1968 onwards still need to be fitted. You can use the old part as an example and possibly reuse the existing weld nuts.

For models prior to 7/1967, there is no choice of quality; they are of the same high quality as quality A for 8/1967 and subsequent years.

Tip: always make sure you have all the necessary parts before starting the job. Use zinc spray between sheet metal parts to prevent rust and seal the joints well so that moisture cannot penetrate. Only by adopting this meticulous approach can you prevent the problem from recurring and truly call your restoration durable and high quality.