A very vulnerable area for rust is the corner at the end of the heating channels, the problem is the two pieces of sheet metal that are spot welded together, creating a focus of rust and rot.
You can only replace the outer part (see the Replacement Parts and Options tab) if the inner part is not rusty. If this is the case, it is preferable to replace the complete heating channel and not to clutter up with many small repair parts.
Unfortunately, there are many amateur restorers who simply replace the exterior and leave the interior as it is, with the result that the appearance is clean but in the foreseeable future the rust will reappear, the rust process is not stopped but simply hidden.
Address the problem at the source, remove all rust (by sandblasting) and replace rusty parts, only then are you on the right track to a quality restoration.
The complete cross members mentioned here replace not only the part behind the heating channels, but also the raised edge on which the rear trunk sheet metal behind the bench seat rests and through which the heating pipes pass. The holes for mounting on the bottom plate are not yet made, you will have to drill them. The welding nuts for the assembly of the heating outlets will still have to be mounted, you can use the old part as an example and reuse the existing welding nuts.
Make sure you have everything in place before starting this work, don't forget to use a zinc spray between the sheet metal parts and seal the seams so that moisture doesn't have a chance in the future.
Note: These parts can also be used for cars up to 7/1964, but it is necessary to replace the heating tubes with the rubber seal and sleeve (see the Related Parts tab).
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